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The
following frequently asked questions are categorized as follows:
1. Butterfly Gardening, 2. Citrus, 3. Flowers (including vines), 4.
Insects/diseases, 5. Lawns, 6. Miscellaneous, 7. Other Fruits, 8.
Orchids; 9. Palms, 10. Roses, 11. Shrubs (including landscaping), 12.
Trees, 13. Vegetables
1. BUTTERFLY
GARDENING
What are the different types of plants that would attract butterflies
to my garden?
It is best to provide a combination of adult nectar sources and larval
host plants to accommodate the entire life-cycle of the butterfly. The
nectar plants that provide nourishment for the butterflies include
butterfly milkweed, purple cornflower, pentas, phlox, wild petunia,
salvia, Stoke’s aster, thyme and verbena. The larval plants, which
serve as a place for butterflies to lay their eggs, include citrus,
pawpaw, magnolia, passion vine, wax myrtle, aster, sunflower and
various legumes.
Aside from a mixture of host and nectar plants, what are some other
planting tips for butterfly gardens?
It is important to plant a wide range of plants in both full sun and
partial shade, when possible. Many butterflies are drawn to plants in
the sun, however, there are many butterflies more at home in the
woodlands and don’t often venture out into the sunlight. Aim for
consistent host and nectar sources throughout the growing season,
since many butterflies are active year-round. This also includes
planting a mix of colors, shapes and sizes to accommodate the
different preferences of a wide range of butterflies. Plants of varied
sizes and density also provide shelter for the butterflies.
What is “puddling” and why is it important to butterflies?
Males of many butterfly species commonly gather at stream banks, mud
puddles, moist gravel or damp sand for access to water, dissolved
salts and amino acids. To attract males, the simplest method is to
fill a large plastic container with sand. Locate an open, sun-lit area
of the garden and dig a shallow hole and place the container in the
ground, so that the rim is even with the top of the soil. Fill in
around the edges with wet sand. The plastic container will hold in the
water and keep the sand moist for some time.
2. CITRUS
Our citrus trees (orange/grapefruit) have bumps (points) on the fruit
and leaves and there was very little fruit this year. The fruit that
was there fell off when it was very small. The trees are getting the
same amount of fertilizer as last year when we had good crops. These
are mature trees but they seem to be growing very fast this year. What
can we do to increase the crop and stop the bumps on the fruit and
leaves?
The bumps are scab, which does not seriously affect the growth of the
tree or the quality or number of fruit, so no control is advised.
Follow instructions outlined below for fertilization.
What is the correct amount and way to fertilize citrus trees?
The trees should be fertilized at least three times a year in October,
February and June. For any type of citrus, measure the circumference
at the base of the trunk and calculate one pound of citrus fertilizer
for every inch measured. Then divide this amount into three
applications. Keep the area underneath the tree clear of all grass,
weeks and mulch. Be careful not to injure the trunk in any way, as
this allows certain diseases to enter the tree
Remember trees in the ground less than seven years are considered
immature and the fruit load will be less than when they are mature.
We have just installed a sprinkler system, which reaches our orange
and grapefruit trees. They are being watered twice a week for about an
hour in the morning. Is this the right amount of water for the trees?
Also, when and how should we trim them?
A heavy soaking of water once a week is adequate. Any more and fruit
will drop. Trimming is on an as-needed basis only to remove sprouts
from below the graft and any wild shoots.
The leaves are turning yellow on my Satsuma lemon tree. I have noticed
carpenter ants “farming” what looks like aphids under the leaves. I’ve
used an oil spray, but it only stops them for a day or two. Any
suggestions for bug sprays? Would an insecticidal soap work?
Ants or aphids are not a problem. They don't affect the citrus trees
adversely, so no control is required. The yellowing could be due to
lack of fertilizer, wrong pH in the soil or over-watering. Decide
which and take corrective action. If you must spray, only spray when
damaging insects are present and use an ultra-fine horticultural oil.
I have a tangerine tree that is at least ten years old. It did not
produce any fruit this year and has something wrong with the bark. It
has three spots about six inches in circumference that are peeling.
The lower spot has white ooze. Do you have any suggestions or any
links that show pictures on the different diseases?
Sounds like a decaying bark problem.
Go to the University of Florida searchable web site, which is full of
information on citrus. The address is of this website is
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
I have an eight-year old Meyer lemon tree. When is the best time to
trim back the tree? It is loaded with fruit, but has many wild
branches.
You can trim citrus any time of the year; however, the ideal time is
the end of January or early February.
My grapefruit tree is deceased. After checking the available
information, it does not sound like canker. I had a visitor from North
Florida and he said it does not look like canker to him. I am not able
to bring a sample to DeLand. Do you have any suggestions as to how I
can get this checked?
It is next to impossible to determine canker from a dead tree without
lab work. If you suspect it, call the Canker Hotline at
1-800-850-3781.
Although it has happened to one of my trees in the past, this year
every citrus tree in my backyard has sprouted branches here and there
with stunted, twisted, curled and otherwise misshapen leaves. In the
past, I have simply cut off the odd branch, but this year there are so
many. What should I do?
This is normal in times when the weather is very wet. These suckers
will make good branches, but cut them off, if you don’t want them. The
tree leaves are some times misshapen, but this is not really a
problem.
I have four trees about two years old that I started from a valencia
orange seed. I have been told they will probably not produce good
fruit. I also have a navel orange tree that is several years old that
I bought at a local garden center. I have been told that in order to
get good citrus, I should “graft” one to another. Please tell me where
I can get detailed information about grafting. I would sure like to
get fruit from the seeds I planted a couple years ago.
Citrus grown from seed may or may not resemble that of the parent
tree. You may try to graft the navel onto the seedling’s rootstock
that you have grown. The University of Florida has an excellent
website that provides publications and topics on grafting. The web
address is http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
I have a four year old orange tree that has never bloomed. It has
heavy foliage, but no sign of buds or fruit.
It sounds like you have a healthy tree. Citrus trees do not normally
bloom and fruit consistently until they have been in the ground five
to seven years.
I have a navel orange tree (red) that I planted four years ago. Last
year, there was fruit but for some reason it was dry and not very
tasty. This year, the tree is full of fruit and I need to know when to
pick it. Of course, it is still green right now, but the oranges are
large and heavy. Should I wait until the fruit is orange?
The navels are generally ready around
Christmastime. You can start checking the fruit at the beginning of
December. Pick an orange and test for taste until they reach the right
sweetness. Otherwise, “store” the fruit on the tree until you are
ready to use it. The pithiness you experienced last year will decrease
some with age, but the red navels tend to do this more than other
varieties.
3.
FLOWERS
I need to select some vines to grow
on trellises for privacy. Unfortunately it is a very shady spot. I
live in an oak hammock area.
.
Vines for shade include native
honeysuckle, confederate jasmine, Carolina yellow jessamine or begonia
capreolata. Flowering will be less under shade.
I'm looking for colorful plants,
including vines that can be used in the shade under oaks.
There are a few shade-tolerant
colorful plants around. Azaleas will grow well under oaks and are
perennial. Other plants that will give you color are impatiens, peace
lilies, begonias, caladiums, coleus and shrimp plants. For vines
consider Carolina yellow jessamine, trumpet honeysuckle or confederate
jasmine.
I just obtained a staghorn fern. It's
in a basket-type container and about two feet across in size. How
often should I water it?
If you have placed your plant
outdoors under a nice shade tree, nature will provide your plant with
the water it needs when we have sufficient rain. During dry spells,
water it thoroughly about once a week. When you eat a banana, chop up
the peel and put it in your staghorn as fertilizer.
Is it better to water flowers once a
week giving them a good soaking? Or is it better to water lightly
several times a week?
If your plants are newly planted,
water lightly several times a week until they’re established. If
they're well established, water one to two times a week, about 1 inch
per application. The best way to know if they need water is to look at
them. If they are droopy in the morning, they need water. Watering in
the morning is best.
I have a bird-of-paradise which has
grown out of control and over the roof of the house. Can it be
transplanted?
Yes, you can transplant the plant.
You will have to dig as far down as you can in order to get as much of
the root ball as possible. You can also divide the plant at the same
time if you wish. Plant as soon as possible in the new location and
water thoroughly. Water daily for one week, then as needed.
We live on the Intercoastal Waterway.
We have a screened-in back porch. We designed a planter inside the
screening. I have tried numerous plants and have been unsuccessful in
finding plants that thrive in that environment. The porch gets sun in
the morning and shade the rest of the day. I do not want an annual, or
a plant that sheds. A low tropical plant is desirable. Any
suggestions?
We suggest heliconia (looks like a
small, colorful bird-of-paradise), bromeliads, miniature schefflera
and possibly papyrus—this grows tall and wispy looking. Be sure that
the plants are adequately fertilized and watered on a regular basis.
My dogs used the planter area to
relieve themselves. Two weeks have passed, the planter has been
cleaned but I still get a “whiff” of their usage. What can I do to
neutralize the area? Also, what plants would be good to plant in the
lanai? The ceiling is 13 feet high; the planter is 3 to 4 feet wide
and 45 feet long. I really want a tropical look.
Rinse the soil well for several weeks
before planting. This should remove the excess waste, so it does not
burn your new plants. Enrich your planting bed with compost, good top
soil and cow manure, and then begin planting your new bed. You might
try some of the following plants for your tropical look—king sago,
European fan palm, selloum, split leaf philodendron, dwarf nandina,
fatsia japonica, schefflera (needs protection from freezing weather).
Use dwarf varieties because of height constraints. Also consider
aspidistra, cast iron plant, bird-of-paradise, heliconia (needs cold
protection), ixora or cannas. This should give you a good start.
Please let me know when to trim and
divide plumbagos.
These are not cold-tolerant plants,
so divide and replant in early March. Trim after plants have been
replanted and have had enough time to begin developing a root system.
This is beneficial for the plant, because in keeping as many leaves as
possible, the plant can make adequate food for itself.
When is the best time to prune
poinsettias? Is August or September too late?
Poinsettias can be pruned March
through August. Do not pinch back any later than the first week of
September or flowering may be delayed or eliminated.
I am having a problem with my
allamandas not blooming anymore. I have them against a fence on the
north side of the house. They get plenty of sun, but that haven’t
bloomed in about a month. Any ideas?
If the plant is healthy, maybe it is
resting. Try an acid-based fertilizer, such as an azalea/camellia
fertilizer for good health. They may also just be hungry!
We recently planted three allamanda
vines. Of the three, only one is thriving. One has completely wilted
and the leaves have a black substance on them. Another one shows signs
of doing the same thing. The only one that is doing really well sits
very close to the sprinklers.
Check to see if there are aphids or
whiteflies on the underside of the leaves. If so, use an ultra-refined
horticultural oil to control these pests. Also check your sprinkler
system; you may need to calibrate your system. A document to help with
that can be located on the University of Florida website at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
I have a privacy fence in my backyard
that is completely shaded. I’d like to hang some baskets of blooming
flowers; will anything grow in the shade beside impatiens?
You are fairly limited, since most
flowering plants require at least some sun (impatiens included) to do
best. There are a number of hanging varieties that do particularly
well in baskets. Tuberous begonias will give showy blooms, but are a
little fussy. Dahlias do well in shade. See if you can get some of the
miniature or border dahlias, so they won’t outgrow a container too
fast. You might also try coleus, particularly in the lighter colors.
They don’t have flowers, but there are an infinite variety of leaf
shapes and colors. There are also caladiums, variegated ivies and
variegated ferns that might do well.
I am looking for suggestions for fall
blooming plants for central Florida.
There are many “cool weather” plants
that grow well in this area, such as hurricane lily, tuberose,
black-eyed Susan, gaillardia, chrysanthemums and climbing aster. Also
available on the University of Florida Extension website,
http://volusia.org/extension_service
(click on Master Gardener) is the
publication, “Flowering Perennials for Central Florida.” It contains
charts that indicate the flowering season for each plant.
Just can’t seem to keep Christmas
cactus. It droops and then rots. Don’t know if we are under watering
or over watering. Help!!
It sounds like an over-watering
problem. The top third of the soil should be allowed to dry out before
re-watering. Good drainage is most important. The soil should have
plenty of sharp sand or finely ground bark to improved drainage.
I would like to move a butterfly bush
and some porter weed. Can I move them now, wait until the weather is
cooler, or wait until spring? Also, when do I cut them back—before or
after I move them?
It is best to move these plants in
the spring. You could prune them anytime, but if it is getting close
to winter, I would wait until after the last frost to do any serious
cutting back.
I have noticed my frangipani plant’s
leaves have what I thought was a yellow/orange powder, which at closer
inspection turns out to be bugs. They seem to suck the life out of the
leaves and then fall off. What can I do to get rid of the bugs
permanently?
Scale insects are a major problem for
frangipani plants, which can easily go unnoticed until both the
infestation and consequent damage are extensive. Scales weaken or kill
the host plant by sucking plant sap through piercing-sucking mouth
parts. Spraying with an ultra-refined horticultural oil can
effectively control most scales. It will take several applications. Be
sure to follow the directions on the label!
I have a frangipani tree that has
grown far too heavy and was starting to part in the middle. We cut it
back by removing all the lower stems jutting out from the main stem
and have tied the five branches left together. They are now starting
to straighten up. Is it best to leave these tied up for a while and
will new shoots come from the branches we cut off?
Frangipani is a generally weak tree
that needs regular pruning. Tie and spindle as needed to keep this
tree in shape. However, you need to know that plants do not heal
themselves. The split is a permanent condition and will never heal.
I have a potted white
bird-of-paradise that is gradually losing all its leaves. They become
brown and look burned. We had it in full sun next to the pool. I don’t
see any obvious pests. Any suggestions?
There could be several problems. Is
the plant pot bound? Could it have gotten chlorine on it, or in it? Is
it getting proper watering and fertilization? It is probably all
three—water, fertilizer and pot bound. Try pulling it from the pot. If
you can’t or the roots are matted, transplant outdoors. Similarly, if
it has a large root system, you would have to water daily (or more)
and fertilize at least monthly (20-20-20). Eventually you are going to
have to get rid of it or plant it in the ground. Bird-of-paradise can
grow up to 12 feet. Planted outside, they some times get a lot of
water damage to the leaves, but new growth always sprouts from the
roots.
My newly planted trees are drowning.
I recently planted a peach tree, tree gardenia and a couple of roses.
Although they are not planted in a normally wet area, the non-stop
storms have begun the rotting of their roots. What should I do? Can I
dig them up and sun bathes them until they dry out?
“Sunbathing” your plants won’t help
and will probably kill them when the fine root hairs dry out. Recent
rains have actually been normal, where the past several years have
been drought conditions, so this might actually be a wet area that is
just now showing its true colors. If you dig down in the dirt and hit
water within two feet of the surface, the problem is a permanent one
and it is best to move these plants to a drier location. In this case,
you might try raised beds or berms for annuals, perennials and small
bushes like roses. Otherwise, stick with plants that prefer or
tolerate wet sites—which does not include peaches or camellias.
Another problem might be your soil’s pH (acidity or alkalinity). Most
beachside locations have fairly alkaline soil that doesn’t suit
acid-loving plants, such as azaleas, camellias, gardenias and the
like. Bring in samples for testing to the Volusia County Extension
Office, 3100 East New York Avenue (Route 44) in DeLand (next to the
fair grounds). Tests for up to three samples are $1.00. The results
will give you a framework for selecting the right plant for your
location.
4.
INSECTS/DISEASES
I recently noticed a grasshopper-like
insect in my flower garden in DeLand. He is black with yellow and red
stripes. He is about two to three inches long. It doesn't appear that
he is doing any harm to my plants, but I want to know what he is. Is
he beneficial or harmful to my garden?
You have baby American lubbers.
They'll become quite large--about four-inches-long-- and will turn
green, orange, yellow and red. They eat practically everything in
sight! Get rid of them now. The only thing that seems to stop them is
the sole of your shoe or a bucket of soapy water in which to drown
them!
I have a yard full of cicadas and
would like to know if they are going to start munching on everything
in sight. If so, what would be the best way to "control" them?
General chemical control of the
cicada is not required. It is best to just ignore them.
I have a continual problem with
millipedes entering my screened pool area and getting into my pool.
What can be used to effectively control millipedes?
Try not to handle the
millipedes--they can bite. Check your weather stripping and make sure
it is tight. Sweep them out daily. You could put down diatomaceous
earth (you can get this at a garden center), which is safe. When the
insects come in contact with the dust, they will slowly die from
dehydration. If all else fails, you can use one of the granular
pesticides on the market. Check the back of the bag for instructions.
How do I stop moles (I assume these
are the culprits) from building their mounds along our stone walkways?
Moles eat grubs. The best way to
discourage moles is to get rid of their food source. Pesticides might
kill the grubs, removing the food source. However, trapping is the
only sure way to get rid of moles. Thy will leave long raised-places
about six inches wide as they tunnel. Just walk along their tunnels to
press the dirt and sod back down.
I’ve been told that the huge holes in
our yard are made by armadillos. How do we stop them?
Armadillos feed primarily on insects
and invertebrates, including ants, grubs and earthworms. Their burrows
are usually six to eight inches in diameter and up to 15 feet long and
are located under brush piles, stumps, rock piles or dense brush. They
dig small holes in the lawn and flower beds as they are foraging for
food. Methods of control include building barriers around your
property, such as fences or the use of live traps and death for the
armadillo. The preferred approach is to tolerate the armadillos.
I would like help identifying a
caterpillar. The critter is rust-orange in color. Its most prominent
feature is multiple tufts of hair resembling the ends of an artist’s
paint brush. Each segment of the body contains six black dots arranged
in a circle. Commercially available sprays seem to have no effect on
it.
From your description, the oleander
caterpillar comes to mind. You did not mention what plants were being
nibbled on. If it is an oleander, most people just let these critters
do their thing without trying to kill them along with any beneficial
bugs, by spraying. Once the caterpillars have eaten their fill, the
oleander miraculously comes back with new leaves.
If you feel the need to use some kind of control, we suggest the use
of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) which is a bio-rational type of
pesticide which kills the caterpillar. Be sure to follow the
directions on the label.
My azaleas have aphids. How many
times should I spray them? How many days in between applications?
We prefer to suggest non-chemical
means of battling bugs. Knock them off the plant with a strong spray
of water. If you feel inundated, you can initially treat with an
insecticidal soap or an ultra-refined horticultural oil. Spray every 7
to 10 days as needed. Verify there is a new infestation before
spraying again.
I have hundreds of tiny bright orange
bugs on my milkweed plants, particularly the seedpods. I thought they
were strange aphids, but today I noticed a bunch that was bigger. My
wife says they are milkweed bugs, but they seem to be damaging to the
plant.
These are indeed milkweed bugs, which
do feed on the flowers and seed pods. Since this plant reseeds
readily, a few seeds will escape the bugs, so no control is
recommended.
We have had a problem with snails for
quite a long time. We have spent money on useless products that we
were told would work. What can we do?
There is really not much you can do
and you are right, most slug and snail baits just do not work.
Metaldehyde is the most effective bait for slugs/snails. You can also
try a shallow pan of beer. Put it out at night, collect and dispose of
the snails and slugs in the morning. Diatomaceous earth sprinkled on
and around the plants may help, too.
5. LAWNS
I have ‘Floratam’ grass and have lost
almost a third of it to chinch bugs and weeds. I am considering
introducing zoysia plugs. Are there any drawbacks?
Zoysia is not the best choice for our
area, as it is extremely slow to establish. Two growing seasons may be
required for coverage of the lawn when plugging or sprigging. All
zoysias form a heavy thatch which requires periodic renovation.
Other disadvantages include: slow recovery from damage, high
fertilization requirements, need for frequent irrigation, severe
damage by nematodes, hunting billbugs, and several diseases. It is
also much finer than 'Floratam.' But you are on the right track: Now
that you know you have chinch bugs, you can treat it as it occurs. You
can also plug the bare spots and they should fill in quickly.
I have two dogs that kill my grass
with their urine. Is there anything I can apply to the lawn to
neutralize the urine and keep my grass from dying? How do I get it to
come back quickly?
Dog urine is like dumping a bag of
fertilizer in one spot. There is no chemical to help. For the grass to
grow back, the excess nitrogen must be flushed from the soil using
plain old water.
My neighbors on either side of me
have mostly weeds. Can you recommend the best weed killer/program for
my ‘Floratam’ grass? I have used a weed and feed product. I am also
battling chinch bugs. I just treated with a granular lawn insecticide
and garden pesticide according to the specifications on the bag, but
maybe I was too late. Am I doomed to hire a pest control service?
Also, how do you feel about “hose-end” sprayers compared to tank
sprayers? My yard is a half-acre, and a tank sprayer takes forever to
cover. I don't have confidence in the strength of application in the
hose-end sprayer.
Weed and feed is not always
productive in killing established weeds. Your best approach to weeds
is applying the chemical atrazine or Image, depending on the weed you
have. Unfortunately, identifying your weed without seeing it is
difficult. Also, switch to using a 16-4-8 or similar material with a
high percentage of slow-release nitrogen for ‘Floratam’ grass twice a
year, March and September, with an application of chelated iron, such
as Ironite in June. This will keep your lawn healthier and hopefully,
keep weeds at a minimum.
For chinch bugs, select an insecticide with St. Augustine noted on the
label. Spray it where you see signs of them and a 15 foot area around
the declining spot. You can tell if an area has bugs not only by
declining grass, but also by pouring soapy water on the area in
question. This forces any bugs to the surface. Then you can treat.
Lastly, the hose-end sprayer is fine. You might look at the
Dial-a-spray if you’re worried about mixture rate. Buy a separate one
for weed control and bug control and label them, so as not to confuse
them. It is hard to get leftover herbicide out and this could injure
shrubs.
Is there any better grass than
‘Bitter Blue’ St. Augustine for a more moist and shady area? Mine
seems to die out every year in the hot part of the summer.
Dwarf St. Augustines, such as Delmar,
Jade or Raleigh, are the best choice for shady areas. Some shade tips
are: more frequent fertilization (same amount you would normally put
out for the year, but split into four to six applications rather than
two), mow at the highest setting possible and maybe skip mowing
occasionally to let the grass get a little shaggy, water only when the
grass appears wilted, which is not as often as the sun grown grass,
and finally limb the trees up more to allow more light under the
trees.
What is causing the yellow areas in
my bahia lawn grass?
There could be several reasons, such
as an iron deficiency, too high a pH or a lack of iron in the soil. I
would suggest a soil test to determine the pH. We offer this service
here at the Volusia County Extension Service, 3100 East New York
Avenue (Route 44), Deland. The cost is $1 for three samples. We test
each Thursday morning, so bring it to the center before then. If the
pH is okay, try applying iron chelate in the area.
I have two types of weeds in my St.
Augustine lawn: globe sedge (Cyperus globulosus), and crabgrass (Digitaria
serotina). Can you suggest an herbicide to control them?
Sedge is an indicator of
over-irrigation. One half to three quarters of an inch of water per
application is sufficient and only water when 30 to 50 percent of the
lawn has a grayish cast. This will aid in long-term weed control. For
chemical control, use Image. Be sure to read the label directions
carefully before using this product.
Crabgrass may be controlled by spot treatment using glyphosate, Finale
or similar material. Long-term control may require the use of
pre-emergent herbicide in late February. You may use atrazine, balan,
or pendimethalin. Follow the label instructions on the herbicide.
We have a sloped area that we want to
cover, so that the sand does not run down when it rains. It has to be
some kind of low maintenance ground cover, which does not need a
sprinkler system.
Asiatic jasmine is a tough, drought
tolerant groundcover. A good choice for sand-hill retention, due to
its extensive root system. It has a dark green, attractive texture. It
does require irrigation for establishment, which can be done with a
hose and sprinkler. After establishment, it requires very little
maintenance. However, it can become invasive, so mow or edge it
frequently!
What is the best time to put out rye
seed and how much seed for an area approximately 8,000 square feet?
Establishment of winter rye grass is
a fairly simple procedure. Seeding time for central Florida is early
December. It is best to wait until the day-time temperatures are
consistently in the low to mid-70 degrees F. If the seeds are planted
during warmer periods, water stress and diseases will reduce the
chance of seed survival. You will need 10 lbs/1,000 sq. ft. If the rye
grass is labeled “perennial or improved” then you will need 10 to 20
lbs/1,000 sq. ft.
How can I get rid of dollar weed in
my lawn and what can I use to prevent it?
Dollar weed, also known as pennywort,
often grows in an over-watered lawn. Lawns are frequently over watered
in the summer in central Florida. To prevent this weed in the future,
make sure your sprinkler system is calibrated to water the lawn no
more than one inch per application, once or twice a week depending on
rainfall.
If your lawn is St. Augustine, November is the time to use the
herbicide atrazine, with a repeat application three to four weeks
later. Complete control may take more than a year. “Prompt” is a
mixture of atrazine and bentazon which works best if the weeds are
already established. If your lawn is not St. Augustine, do not use
atrazine.
For further information, go to the University of Florida’s publication
website http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu
and search for the publication “Weed Control Guide for Florida Lawns.”
I have had dogs for four years, but
my lawn problem has just started this year. The grass became very thin
and brown patches developed. These areas have grown and now over half
the yard is bare. Nothing has changed in the way we treat the yard. We
use Scott’s Bonus S in the spring and fall, because the yard tends to
be overrun with dollar weed. (I would be happy to see some right now!)
If your problem began as a couple of
thin spots that have since spread, it could be a fungus (especially in
a year when there is a lot of rain and poor drainage). Or, it might be
insect damage (chinch bugs if you have St. Augustine grass).
Look at the decent grass at the perimeter of the bad area. If a fungus
is the problem, you should see brown, tan or grey streaks/spots on
individual grass blades. Get a good broad-spectrum fungicide at the
garden center; otherwise, get one targeted to your grass type and the
fungus brown patch. If the blades look okay, but you see small (1/16
inch) bugs in the grass, it is probably chinch bugs. Get a soil
insecticide, specifically listing chinch bugs. In both cases, read and
follow label instructions carefully.
We recently had three pine trees cut
down in our yard. The stumps were removed to ground level, but all
around the stumps are roots showing through the grass. Can I fill the
areas where the stumps and roots are with top soil and sod or should I
try to remove the roots?
You really can’t lay sod over stumps
and large roots and expect good results. Even if you put on a layer of
topsoil, the stumps and roots will tend to be a barrier to water
percolation/retention until they rot; sod might look great until hot
or dry weather, but then it will show browning in the pattern of the
roots and stumps. Try to take out as much of the junk as you can.
I cannot figure out why my backyard
looks so terrible. I have a sprinkler system, water every day (15
minutes a cycle) and it still looks brown. The yard has mixed weeds
and looks like a St. Augustine variety, but I’m not sure. It used to
be very lush and looked great. I recently sodded the front yard with
Palmetto and it looks great. However, over the past few months the
backyard has been getting worse. I have spoken to a few people and
they thought it might be grubs or some kind of bug, but I haven’t seen
anything. I just put down some Scott’s Max Guard, but that didn’t seem
to correct it. Any suggestions?
Your problems may be water related. I
suspect a root rot from over watering. Unfortunately, your lawn may be
lost, but if you reduce the level of watering to once or twice a week
applying at least ¾ to 1 inch of water, you may be able to salvage
what’s left.
Our ‘Floratam’ yard is only four
years old. We have a problem with carpet grass, browning spots and now
bright yellowing areas. What’s the problem? We upgraded our lawn from
St. Augustine, so we wouldn’t have these problems. I spend weekends
pulling the carpet grass and trying to figure out how to save my
expensive grass. How do we get rid of all these problems?
‘Floratam’ is a type of St.
Augustine. This grass must have full sun all day to thrive. Your lawn
problems are simple to address and to treat. The yellow spots are
symptoms of a hungry lawn—an iron treatment with a product such as
Ironite will cure the problem. Fertilize with a 16-4-8 with minor
elements in February and September. This will help with lawn vigor to
overcome some other problems, such as weeds. For the “carpet grass,”
it sounds like carpet crabgrass. To control this weed, use a product
containing glyphosate. This will also kill the grass in this area.
Plug or resod to fill these areas. The key to this weed is prevention.
Use a pre-emergence herbicide in mid-February to kill the weed’s seeds
as they germinate. Applied at the proper time, this will work well.
Please be sure to read and follow the direction on the bags for best
results. Pulling this weed is futile, it only spreads the seed.
I have ‘Argentine’ Bahia and would
like to replace it with another type of grass. My lawn has lots of
oaks and pines. Is ‘Floratam’ St. Augustine considered a good
replacement choice?
Glad you asked before doing!
‘Floratam’ is a sun-loving cultivar of St. Augustine that is a
recommended grass for this area. It sounds as if you have a lot of
shade and may want to consider another cultivar. One of the dwarf St.
Augustines would be a better choice—‘Delmar,’ ‘Jade’ or ‘Seville.’
I have ‘Floratam’ grass and it keeps
getting dead spots in the same area. I clean out the dead grass and
apply pest control, weed control, etc. The grass will eventually come
back and then it starts all over. I apply about one to one-half inch
of water a week.
If the dead spots keep reappearing in
the same place, I suspect something cultural is at work. Is there
something buried beneath the soil (rock, building debris); does water
pool and stay in the area, etc.? Might take a little detective work.
We have been in our home for six
years. Before that, the home sat empty for two years and the lawn was
overrun with weeds. The most prevalent weed is sand spurs. We can’t
seem to get rid of them and now the backyard is so bad the kids can’t
play out there without crying out in agony every few seconds. How can
we get rid of them?
You didn’t mention the type of grass
you have/had, so let’s try a combination of tactics for your yard.
First, hand pull four or five weeds a day, when walking through the
lawn. Be sure to DISCARD these weeds in a plastic bag or burn them.
Sounds like work, but over a period of a few weeks you have eliminated
a considerable amount of your problem. If the sand spurs have gone to
seed, try dragging a piece of shag carpet around the yard. This will
“catch” lots of sand spurs, lessening your problem next year. In
February, be sure to use a pre-emergent weed treatment labeled for
your type of grass before your weeds begin to grow again. Repeat the
application in three to four months.
6.
MISCELLANEOUS
I am going to plant a very large area
this fall and would like to properly prepare the soil. I am primarily
concerned with killing weeds. I read that Vapam is an excellent way to
prepare the soil. What do you think and is it available?
Vapam is no longer available. If it's
weeds you are after, a product containing glyphosate is a good choice.
Keep in mind you will always have weeds no matter what you do.
However, you can cut down on the weeds by using organic mulch in
either vegetable or landscape gardens. As far as soil preparation,
nothing is better than adding organic material, (cow, chicken manure,
organic compost). Use, where possible, disease and insect resistant
plants to reduce the amount of maintenance needed.
I planted my landscape last year and
all of the leaves look burned at the edges. Could this be because I
live across the street from the ocean? I do get a heavy wind and the
only protection from the ocean is a six foot wall.
You don’t say what kind of plants you
have. If they are NOT salt-tolerant, you will have trouble keeping
them healthy. You can benefit from the University of Florida bulletin
on salt-tolerant plants, which can be accessed on the website,
http://volusia.org/extension_service
(click on Master Gardener).
I would like to get an affordable
landscape design for the area around a small lake in our subdivision.
Any suggestions other than the yellow pages for a landscape architect,
which is very expensive?
You could try a landscape designer,
who would be less expensive than an architect. There are also several
good computer programs that you can use to design landscapes yourself.
These range in price, but they are much less expensive than the
previously mentioned alternative. Some have “canned” designs for a
quick fix.
Recently I purchased my home in
Daytona Beach and am interested in landscaping my lawn. I realize it
might take me a few years to get my yard the way I want it to look. Do
you have any suggestions on getting some free advice for plant choices
in this area? I plan on making a sitting area to relax and look at the
stars and moon. I need some shade in my front lawn, but do not have a
lot of time to rake leaves. Someone suggested a Laurel Oak. Can you
tell me where I can find a picture of this tree?
Welcome to Florida. I recommend
“Florida Landscape Plants” published by the University of Florida. It
is available on the website, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu,
in the IFAS bookstore under landscaping. It might also be helpful for
you to go to a botanical garden, such as Leu Gardens in Orlando, and
have someone point a laurel oak out to you. Your sitting areas sounds
great, but remember an oak tree will get big and a laurel will drop
leaves and branches heavily once a year.
I need information on how a weed
killer affects plant growth.
In general weed killers injure plants
in some way to kill them. They were originally developed to keep
farmers from having to till the soil to kill weeds. Excessive tilling
can cause soil erosion. Since then, we have discovered that the
herbicides can harm fish, birds and even humans. Many can only be used
by licensed professionals.
Specifically, amides interfere with cell division. Arsenicals
interfere with metabolism, benzoics and phenosxys produce excessive
growth. The weed outgrows its ability to make food for itself.
Dinitroanilines are root growth inhibitors. Nitrils and thiocarbimates
inhibit root, stem and shoot growth. Phenols smother the plant.
Triazines, ureas and uracils all interfere with photosynthesis.
Glyphosate is a contact herbicide—it disrupts the cell membranes and
also interferes with photosynthesis.
In an effort to protect various
plants from the winter frost/cold (e.g., topiaries, pigmy palms) must
I repeatedly cover and uncover them, or can I simply pile mulch and/or
dirt higher up their trunks to help insulate them? Also, I have banana
plants that die-off during the winter and come back in the spring
after I prune them low. Should I cut back banana plants in December
before they start to wilt?
You must cover and uncover. Piling
mulch will not protect the topiaries or palm. It also encourages root
and trunk rot. It is better to leave the bananas alone and let them
tell you where and when to trim them back in the Spring.
I want to have my soil tested. How
far below the surface should I take my sample and where do I take it
to be tested?
Take the soil samples from the top
six inches. Dig a hole and take a “slice” of soil down the side of the
hole. Bring samples to the Agricultural Center at 3100 East New York
Avenue, Deland, Florida (adjacent to the Volusia County Fair Grounds).
Cost is $1.00 for three samples.
I’m new to gardening in central
Florida. What is the best mulch to use around plants and shrubs to cut
down on the weed problem?
Probably a medium-sized pine bark
mulch is best. It should be two to three inches deep to control weeds.
Pine mulch also has the benefit of being a by-product of the lumber
industry, so it is environmentally sound. Don’t use stone or rock. It
isn’t very good mulch or weed suppressor and it retains/reflects a lot
of heat that shorter shrubs don’t like.
Does Volusia County have a facility
to pick up compost for general gardening?
Unfortunately, no. It does, however,
offer free mulch (ground up yard wastes, etc.) at the county transfer
station on State Road 44 in Deland. Call 386-943-7889 for details. You
could start composting the mulch.
I recently became the proud owner of
two very large platycerium ferns (staghorn). They both have bases over
four feet and fronds that hang over six feet. One is outside and doing
very well. The other is inside and some of the fronds are turning
brown and curling at the ends. Also, the fronds from the top section
have all fallen off. I have noticed some white crustacean-looking
insects on the underside of some fronds. My questions are:
What is the proper watering technique, spray mist or water from above
and allow gravity to work?
What could be causing the browning/curling of the fronds?
The outside plants do have some ants. I’m afraid they will introduce a
harmful symbiotic. How can I exterminate the ants without harming the
plant?
What are the white crustacean insects and how do I eradicate them?
And, finally,
Do these plants require pruning?
Keeping this fern indoors is probably
the cause of its problems. It needs a humidity level that is not
available indoors, except in a greenhouse. Most of the water the plant
uses it gets from humidity in the air. Watering during dry periods
with a fine spray or mist may be necessary. The ants I would not worry
about. They are usually predators of less desirable insects. The white
“crustacean” looking bugs are probably scales and can be controlled by
using an ultra-fine horticultural oil and manually removing the
visible insects. Remove only brown fronds to keep the plant looking
tidy.
I have a pony tail plant. Its stalk
is like a ball at the bottom and long thin leaves (which look like
long strands of hair) coming out of the top. Every once in a while the
plant gets a lot of sticky white matter on it. We spray it for fungus
(drench it) and this goes away. My question is what is the white
sticky stuff? If it is bad, what can we do to keep it from occurring?
Sounds like it could be an
insect—possibly mealy bugs. When the white stuff happens again, try
applying an ultra-refined horticultural oil according to label
directions. Probably not a fungus unless you are keeping the plant
VERY wet. Let the ponytail dry a lot between waterings.
We have discovered quite a bit of
poison oak in our gardens. Is there any “easy” way of getting rid of
it besides pulling it out by gloved hands? Some kind of a spray or
something?
Do not hand-pull OR burn poison oak
plants. Any pieces of root left behind will sprout into new plants.
Also, the oil remains potent on clothing for up to TWO YEARS. When
burned, the oil vaporizes and smoke can cause skin, eye and lung
irritations. Use of herbicides containing glyphosate weed killer is
suggested. Treat anytime the plants are actively growing. The vigorous
roots are difficult to kill, so repeated treatments may be necessary
if new growth appears. Handle dead plants with rubber gloves because
they still may be toxic. Place dead plants in plastic bags and tie
securely. Discard bags and rubber gloves. If you do come in contact
with poison oak, wash as soon as possible with a drying agent, such as
rubbing alcohol, or a mixture of baking soda and water.
7. OTHER
FRUITS
Can I grow peach trees is South
Daytona?
Yes, you can. There are low chilling
peaches/nectarines developed for Florida, but they require a spray
program to keep them healthy. Some recommended varieties are ‘Rayon,’
‘Tropic Sweet,’ ‘Tropic Snow’ and ‘Sunracer.’
How do I know when the figs on my
tree are ripe and ready to pick?
Picking your figs depends on what you
wish to do with them. If you want them soft for preserves, wait until
the fruit is soft and light green to brown. If you want to eat or cook
the figs, pick them when they are still firm and a pale, somewhat
mottled green. Wear gloves to protect you from their irritating milky
juice. When pulling off the tree, leave the stem attached to the
fruit. Remove all fallen fruit from the ground to keep down insect and
pest problems.
We have found several papaya trees in
the yard of the house we moved into. The trees have many green
papayas. How long do they take to become yellow and edible? Also, the
branches with large leaves cover the fruits. Should I cut the branches
to expose the fruits to the sun?
In south Florida, fruit are harvested
in October or November. In cooler areas, harvest may occur in May or
June, following fruit set. Trouble is, the plant is harmed at
temperatures of 30 degrees F. or below, so it might not survive. Don’t
prune the leaves, the plant is deciduous and will lose them anyway.
Why not pick a few green papayas and see if they will ripen indoors.
Otherwise, wait and see what happens.
I recently purchased a clearance
loquat at a local garden center. What care should I give it? Will it
require a second loquat?
Loquats grow well in a wide variety
of soils. They are quite tolerant of drought, except during the
flowering and fruiting periods. They require little care and are very
abundant producers not needing a second tree. They are evergreen and
reach a height of 25 to 30 feet with a very full shape. Pruning can be
successfully done, but is seldom required. The loquat is not exacting
in its fertilizer requirements. In Florida soils, some fertilizer is
necessary for satisfactory fruit production. Mixtures containing 6-8%
nitrogen, 2-4% available phosphoric acid, 6-8% potash and 3-4%
magnesium gives good results.
I planted a banana tree approximately
one week ago. I water it everyday and it appears to be thriving. Are
there any special procedures for watering, fertilizing, etc. and what
can I do to help it survive the winter?
Bananas are seriously injured by
temperatures below 32º F and will be killed back to their rhizomes at
temperatures of 28º F. Planting in a protected area and covering
during periods of frost is probably your only recourse. Bananas thrive
best in deep, fairly heavy, moist soils rich in organic matter,
provided the soil is well drained. Bananas are heavy feeders. You can
use a generally balanced fertilizer once a month during the growing
season.
I have a loquat tree that is three
years old. It does not show any signs of bearing fruit. Is it too
young or am I doing something wrong? Your help will be appreciated.
Your tree is probably too young. If
the tree is in good shape, you might expect some fruit next year and
close to full production when it is five years and older.
The loquat needs full sun to bear well. Although it isn’t picky about
soil and fertilizer, it will benefit from two to three feedings a
year.
8.
ORCHIDS
My Cattelelya orchid is getting pale
yellow shading on the leaves. Someone said this could be sunburn. What
can I do for it?
Remove your orchid from direct
sunlight. Try different locations--these plants should only receive 20
to 30 percent sunlight. Also fertilize with a good "orchid special"
that contains minor elements for good overall plant health.
We have had a few cool nights lately.
When should I take my orchids in?
You should bring them in when the
night temperatures dip below 50º F.
My orchids look very good, but I
haven’t seen them flower yet. If I fertilize them once a week would
that be too much?
Are your orchids indoors? If so, move
them out. The most common problem with orchids not blooming is they
need at least a 30 degree difference in temperature between day and
night to stimulate blooming. Fertilize once every two to three weeks.
Once a week is too often.
9.
PALMS/CYCADS
I have two small palm trees that were
in my yard when I purchased my house. Is there a way to prune them to
keep them low, or is there another variety of palm tree I should
plant?
You cannot prune your palms from the
top. You will kill the bud and the palm will die. There are varieties
of palms that you can plant, including dwarf palmetto (3-6 feet) and
saw palmetto (3-4 feet). You might want to consider shrubs. For more
information on palms go to the University of Florida searchable
website, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
I have three very nice sago palms. On
the underside of the fronds, they have developed a white scale. What
should I do?
We would suggest using a
horticultural soap or an ultra-refined horticultural oil every two
weeks until the problem is resolved. Be sure you thoroughly cover the
top and bottom sides of the frond for best control. If this doesn't
work, a systemic insecticide such as Cygon or Orthene could be used.
I have a sago palm that seems to be
cloning itself on the bottom. I am reluctant to remove these shoots
because I think I might damage the plant. However, it has produced two
clones about 24 inches long. Can these be removed and planted? If so,
how?
The cloning you see are the suckers
on the sago palm. Spring is the best time to remove these side shoots.
After they are severed from the trunk, let the side shoots form a
callus. This will take a few days. Plant the “pup” in a good-sized pot
until it is started before putting it in the ground. Use a
well-drained soil mix and keep moist until rooted. Removing shoots
from the plant is not necessary, but does give you more plants!
I have a Washingtonian palm. Can I
cut off most of the fronds for the winter, and have only about eight
on the top? Would this hurt the tree?
As a general rule, don’t cut off any
palm fronds that are still green and providing nourishment for the
tree. Cut any fronds that are brown. If some of the lower branches are
green, but unsightly, they can be cut too. Just don’t get carried
away. Excessive frond pruning will kill a palm over time.
The palm trees in my yard have a
green algae/mold on their trunks. Is this bad? How do I get rid of it?
That sounds like the common green
mold that grows on the north side of trees. If it is the common green
mold, it is harmless. If you aren’t sure, bring a sample to the
Agricultural Center at 3100 East New York Avenue (Route 44) in Deland.
One of the Master Gardeners will check it out for you.
We have some sago palms, which have
fronds that are yellowing, withering and dying. Other shrubs on our
property are doing well. What do you think is wrong with the sagos?
This sounds like a deficiency of
magnesium or manganese. If the fronds are yellowing at the bottom of
the plant, it needs magnesium, use Epsom salts. If the top fronds are
yellowing and frizzling, use manganese sulfate. To avoid this in the
future, use a fertilizer that is specially formulated for palms.
This spring I planted coontie seeds
in four inch pots. They are now about six inches tall. Should I leave
them in their pots through the winter or put them in the ground now?
The coonti is a very hardy plant, but
since they are so small, it might be best to keep them in the pots
until spring.
10. ROSES
What are the best varieties of roses
to plant for the central Florida climate and soil type?
The key point in rose selection for
Florida is locating a variety of rose that has been grafted onto the
special root stock that grows best in central Florida. For year-round
vigorous growth, choose roses grafted onto Rosa fortuniana or Dr. Huey
root stock. The best tip for plant selection is to ask the “root
stock” questions before purchasing a plant. If the garden center or
nursery personnel cannot identify the root stock, it is best not to
buy the plant, since it will not thrive in your garden.
What is black spot and what is the
best way to treat it?
Black spots are formations on the
leaves of the plants. The tissue next to the spot turns yellow and the
leaves eventually fall off. This disease occurs mostly in humid
weather and is spread by spores that form on spots which are then
carried from plant-to-plant by rain or sprinkling. One way to prevent
black spot is to water roses early in the day, so that the leaves will
be dry by nightfall. Also, remove diseased leaves and prune diseased
wood before spring growth. Do not space plants too close together to
avoid rapid spreading of black spot. Apply a lime-sulfur spray before
spring growth begins and spray with a fungicide weekly throughout the
growing season.
What is the best time to prune roses?
Give plants a major pruning in early
February or when the dormant buds just begin to swell. Established
plants will need to be cut back by a half to one-third at this time.
Something is eating my rose
bushes--chewing part of the leaves in a circular manner. What can I
use to deter this creature?
What you have are leaf cutter bees.
They are considered beneficial as they feed on other harmful insects.
They use the leaf circles to line their nest. It is preferable that
you not spray, but tolerate their damage. Keep fertilizing regularly
and the roses will be fine.
11.
SHRUBS
We have just moved into a home. I
would like to know where I can find information on landscaping and
planting the right plants for our location.
We have lots of bulletins to help you
get started. They are available at the Agricultural Center at 3100
East New York Avenue (Route 44) in DeLand or the University of Florida
searchable website, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu. It's also a good idea to
bring in soil samples to the Ag Center from several places in your
yard in order to identify the pH level, before investing in expensive
plants. To do this, take a sample of soil from three locations in your
yard and mix them together. Bring in about a cup of this mix for
testing. The cost is three samples for $1.00.
I’m thinking of planting oleander
bushes as a screen in my backyard. Do they have any insect problems,
etc?
Oleanders make a great screen, but
are poisonous to eat or burn! They also have the oleander caterpillar.
This insect can be controlled with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), by
spraying on a weekly basis. You might want to select other shrubs!
Look for Florida anise, ligustrum or Walter viburnum.
What is the correct time of year to
set out azaleas in DeLand? How often do they need to be fertilized and
watered?
You can plant azaleas anytime. Be
sure not to bury the top of the root ball in the ground or they will
die. Do not plant them any deeper than they are in the pot. Water
every day for a couple weeks until they're established and then as
needed. You can fertilize two to three times a year with an acid
fertilizer. Mulch to keep weeds down and to conserve water.
Could you tell me when is the best
time to prune hibiscus and how much?
The best time to prune heavily is
early spring (February/March). Do not prune late in the fall or in the
winter. Prune lightly any time to remove diseased/dead wood, rubbing
branches, weak or droopy growth.
Blooms are produced on new growth, so blooming will be delayed or
reduced if you prune heavily during the active growing season.
Prune to maintain a desired size and shape without disrupting blooming
by cutting only the longest one-third of the branches at one time. Cut
the next longest branches a couple of weeks later and the remaining
one-third a month after that. Light, periodic pruning avoids the need
for heavy pruning.
Please advise me how to care for the
ixoria plant. I am having trouble with it blooming.
Ixoras need plenty of sun to bloom
properly, but will tolerate some light shade. A good fertilization
program with an acidic fertilizer will encourage blooms and add a
little iron if you have problems with yellowing of the leaves.
Constant pruning reduces/eliminates flowers. Cold temperatures can
damage these plants, so this is one you might want to cover.
At my new house, there are many
lantanas which have been allowed to grow wild. When is the best time
to prune these back and how? Also can my spider plants and other
outside houseplants go in the ground here?
Your lantana can be cut back anytime
during the warm months. Add a little fertilizer and water and they
will begin to fill out. If a winter freeze should affect them, they
should come back from the root. Yes, your spider plants can be planted
outside and most other house plants will do fine if planted in the
proper sunlight and given some winter protection.
When should I prune my azaleas?
Prune immediately after blooming in
the spring, but no later than September 1 or you will get little or no
blooms the following spring.
Which shrubs will do best in my front
yard (south side)?
You will need to consider plants that
do well in the sun. There are many things to consider when choosing
what to plant, such as the height of and view from your windows. We
have several excellent bulletins that list plants that do well in the
sun and ones that do well in the shade. The University of Florida
website contains a variety of publications on shrubs and native
plants, search on http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
We have several dwarf ixora bushes.
How would you suggest we protect them from the cold?
If the plants are small enough, you
can cover them with a cardboard box. If not, tent the plants with a
sheet or light-weight blanket. Keep the cover off the leaves of the
plant and make sure it reaches the ground. Water the plants well the
morning before a freeze. The water will absorb radiant heat from the
sun and release it during the night.
I recently planted large, older
clusters of pampas grass. What is the best way to care for them?
Should I prune or comb them? Are they frost tolerant?
They are indeed frost tolerant. Water
them once a week and they will continue to grow new roots all winter.
Fertilize in the spring with a 16-4-8 or similar material. Pruning or
combing is unnecessary and could do more damage than good.
Would you Identify a plant for me? It
is the size of a big hibiscus. Its leaves are shaped like a maple, but
darker and velvety. The flowers are white when it opens and about noon
it starts to turn pink. They fold up and drop off daily.
Sounds like you have a Confederate
rose, which is a Hibiscus mutablis. It will freeze down each year, but
come back with enthusiasm. Needs full sun, moderate watering and is a
whitefly attractor. Knock the whiteflies off with a garden hose and
enjoy your plant.
